Silverdale is a village on the Lancashire coast that is as lovely as it sounds.
For a village of 1,500 people it offers plenty and the sunsets are stunning. We stayed at the friendly Silverdale Hotel, apparently one of twenty listed buildings there. It’s a few yards from the sea and home to a mighty breakfast.
It has three pubs (though the Royal hasn’t reopened since lockdown) and the most dangerous library in Lancashire.
On the way there we stopped at the Canal Turn in Carnforth and got chatting to a man walking his dog. He knew Silverdale so I asked him if the Woodlands was still the same. “Ah yes, the Adams family house” he replied, referring to the gothic style building dating from 1878 that overlooks the village with views across Morecambe Bay. It’s a Good Beer Guide regular with good reason but I hadn’t been for twenty years.
Woodies as it’s known is about a mile uphill walk from the sea. The phone signal disappears on the way up – naturally there’s no WiFi – and it looks much the same as it did all those years ago.
Back then the Guide said “much of it is very run-down but the bar is cosy”, which was code for meaning the furnishings were on life support and the place smelt of decaying owls. The furniture has been replaced and the owlish smells are no longer, but there was still the sense of a proper pub, well supported in the village.
It’s still quirky. The current Guide states “to ring the pub you need to ring twice”; presumably they won’t answer the first time. It’s the sort of pub where small groups of men sit in silence for several minutes then say “I’m not sure Dave but I think it’s 6 by 12” while across the floor beside a vast fireplace a couple were discussing a restaurant that scored a hygiene rating of zero.
My beer was Nettle Thrasher from Elland Brewery. It was 4.4% of coppery gorgeous that would once have been described as a a Premium Bitter.
I wandered back down past the church, the many stone buildings and the incongruously modern fire station.
And rejoined Madame Luna at the Silverdale, only to find the pup had switched from cask Banks Sunbeam to craft 61 Deep. Dogs eh?
Later we walked the dog over The Lots. As the sun went down it was all rather magical.